Century Arms CETME Sporter 308
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These photos represent the exact firearm for sale, a Century Arms CETME Sporter 308 Semi-Auto Rifle with a 20-Round Magazine.
As with many used trade-in firearms, this rifle may contain scratches and/or signs of wear. This is not always the case, but should not be unexpected.
- Model: CETME Sporter
- Caliber: 308 (7.62x51mm NATO)
- Barrel Length: 17.7 in.
- Capacity: 20 Rounds
- Action: Semi-auto
If you’ve been around the shooting scene for any amount of time, then you probably be familiar with the name Century Arms. Century was a supplier of lots of surplus military handguns and long guns with reasonable prices. In the past they began to make AK-47 type rifles with a mix of surplus parts as well as brand new components. Now, if you’re familiar with something about the AK-47 rifle, then you’ll know it’s simple at its finest. They were made that way to make them easily maintained by fighters from Third World countries, who had no knowledge of firearms. The AKs were frequently used and misused and were rarely cleaned. They did have a reputation for working without cleaning or lubrication which was not the best accuracy of combat rifles, but they were effective.
There has been widespread reports it was discovered that Century Arms, were using specially trained chimps in the assembly of their semi-auto model of AK-47. There were many of issues in the case of Century Arms AK-47s not functioning. I’m sure, I had some of them. I was fortunate enough to carry out a few gunsmithing on these guns to get them running. One gun was just a matter of getting to have the rod for gas to straighten out. Who would be so foolish to use the rod bent by bending it? Evidently, Century doesn’t allow test firing of the guns it builds. The positive side is Century Arms has improved their quality control. They’re taking greater care when assembling the rifles with military patterns that they offer for sale.
A few times ago, I bought an old Century Arms rifle that was identified as “C308” and it looked quite similar in appearance to H&K Model 91 (“HK91″) battle rifle, with just some minor variations. The main difference was that it included a fake flash hider, but not an issue. The person who owned it prior to me was able to do a good spray paint camo finish for the entire gun – it was not a problem. The best part is it was used, but brand new. lightweight paratrooper magazines made of aluminum were available for sale at 99 cents each. This was a bargain cost on magazines. I think I had around 100 spare magazines to use for the C308.
Like many times, I tripped up and decided to sell the rifle in, and regretted it when I made the trade. The rifle was never in issue of any kind, having a variety of surplus military 7.62 NATO ammo – and it was extremely precise, too. After a few weeks I went back to the exact gunshop located in Boise, Idaho and spied my previous C308 but there was no one who had bought it. Then I bought it back and was thrilled. However, I hit rough times and had to sell it and not exchange it. It was also the last time I heard from it.
My gun shop of choice that I frequent now in Oregon acquired a massive collection of guns. In that collection was the brand new Century Arms C308 – I made a quick deal and returned it. It was crafted using an assortment of brand new as well as surplus (used) components. The upper receiver and barrel are brand new – manufactured by PTR which produces impressive clones of the first H&K 91 battle rifle. There are some additional U.S.-made components, which comply with The Federal Section 922(r) import law. The rest of the components are military-grade parts made from surplus military HK or CETME rifles across the globe. The Model 91 of the H&K is a civilian-friendly version of the Select-Fire G3 rifle. The parts are all supposed to be interchangeable, but certain parts are not and others aren’t. The major difference lies within the group of fire controlsin order to avoid unauthorized transformation to fully auto.
However, the C308 could be composed of surplus military parts from many countries that you do not know it. The pistol grip and the trigger housing hold the trigger. The version I use is referred to as”Navy” lower “Navy” lower – it is constructed from polymer. The internals are mainly part of the military and a portion of civilian parts, keeping the rifle semi-auto.
The safety can be found situated on the left that is the left side of your pistol grip and it can be flipped between “safe” and down for “fire” and it has an extremely short throw that is easy to operate. The magazine release button is a push button on the right of the magazine well. It’s simple to use, and it locks those twenty-round aluminum alloy G3 mags with ease. (But they’ve increased in cost to $4.88-still an affordable price in the current market of FAL magazines that cost $30 each as well as M14 magazine.) Needles to mention, I bought lots in G3 alloy magazine from CDNN to keep ample spares. With prices of less than $5 per magazine they’re almost to be thrown away.
My current C308 utilizes an older CETME rear sight. The CETME was the precursor to the G3 and has a rear view that can rotate from 100 yards up to 400 yards. That’s the maximum distance you can shoot using open sights. The Model 91/G3 had a back sight that rotated – quick and easy to switch the sights for the range. The CETME version is not as quick, but acceptable. Front sight is the CETME version too…hard to adjust for elevation, however, once you’ve adjusted it, you won’t have to mess around with it anymore. HH&K offers a device to make rear and front sight adjustments. It costs $89.99 I’m not interested. It was my idea to modify a pair tiny needle-nose pliers to use for adjustable front of the sight.
So, what’s our take on this Century Arms C308? It’s chambered with .308 Winchester. But it can also fire 7.62mm NATO ammo and that’s an excellent thing. It weighs 9 pounds, which is heavy, and yet, it’s an “battle” rifle, not the lightest small-caliber carbine. barrel measures 18 inches in length – and, as we mentioned earlier, is completely new. The chamber is fitted with “flutes” cut into it that are part of the design of the delayed roller block. The first PTR chambers did not have sufficient flutes to cut through the walls, and also weren’t sufficiently deep. However, their latest production has this issue fixed. Also, we have the black polymer thin vented forearm that is preferred over the more substantial triangular design used on many H&K Model 91 rifles.
The view in the front is shielded from harm by a ring around it. We also have the charging handle, which is parallel with the barrel…it is strong enough to be pulled back and then chamber rounds, however as I’ll explain, I’ve been working on the handle to make it perform more smoothly. This H&K design is different from other military rifles…it features an unlocked bolt that locks and unlocks using a delay roller design…the rollers inside the bolt carrier are locked to minimize recoil following firing. Thus, it is the “delayed” version of locking/unlocking the bolt and the carrier. It can help to reduce the impact of the recoil felt. The buttstock is a surplus mil-spec. The muzzle is a typical commercial brake, however the flash hider of the military could be substituted if you want.
To take down the C308 for cleaning. You push two pins out between the lower and buttstock The buttstock is pulled off, and you then remove the bolt/bolt holder while the trigger housing slides down. It is simple to clean. You can clean the chamber and barrel just like you would for any other gun, and after which clean your bolt holder. The best method of cleaning this is to use an brake cleaner for automobiles simple and quick. I also employ brake cleaner to clean out the chamber…it’s easy. It is also a good idea to it is a good idea to lightly relubricate prior to reassembling.
The housing for the trigger – you can remove this from your polymer group and wash it. Or, once more make use of the brake cleaner…then apply lubrication to all joints articulating them – and it’s not necessary to overload it by lubing it. Similar to the bolt/bolt carrier group. Apply Break Free lube to those parts that articulate, then put the bolt/bolt carriage back to the upper receiver. Then connect it using the two pins that you removed, and you’re ready to go. Also, the two pins that you removed…there is a hole in the buttstock to can put the pins in while your rifle is disassembled to ensure that you don’t loose the pins.
CURING A STIFF CHARGING HANDLE
My C308 was equipped with a extremely heavy charging handle. it took two people and a little boy, to get it back in chamber a round! I used sandpaper that was extremely fine and smoothed out all the edges of the hammer within the trigger group. It was rough , but extremely rough…once I got the nice shine on the hammer, i applied gun grease to the hammer. I also lubricated the charging handle’s assembly with a lot of. After that, as you pulled the charge handle back it pulled the bolt and bolt carrier onto the smooth hammer using the lube and was a major improvement. After firing over 300 rounds with the gun during my tests and it slowed down further making the charge handle more easy to move back. Century Arms CETME.
The correct way in charging your C308 is to retract the charging handle and then lock it into the notch that is at near the top of your travel…then put in the magazine that is loaded, ensure that it is locked in the right place. Then, you can simply “slap” the charging handle down, and it’ll chamber the round. When you say “slap” that charging handle downwards, I’m talking about. Don’t try to pull it back slowly, just slap it to ensure that the round you want be chambered every time.
I had spare parts from my earlier C308 I attempt to have spare parts in my longer guns…and one of the parts that was missing was the attachment for the sling to allow you to clip the sling to the top or side of the gun and connect the sling onto the buttstock. This helps to carry the gun more comfortable by using the strap. It is also important to mention that the buttstock is equipped with an elastomer butt pad.
Prior to firing any new or used gun, I make sure to check them and also look down the barrel is among my things to do. I didn’t see any illumination down into the barrel…a the plastic “flag” had obviously broken out of the barrel…had I fired a round when I chambered the gun, it would explode – therefore always inspect the barrel of any gun , either used or new.
I had plenty of South African military surplus 7.62 NATO ammo available. It’s over 40 years old, but each round I tried fired with any issue. The friendly folks from Black Hills Ammunition have sent me some of their .308 Winchester Match HP ammo 168 grams to test in the new gun, too.
In total I fired less than 300 rounds. However, I was alone for testing We have this Coronavirus, which we’re fighting and I’m trying to avoid social contact thing. I do not wish to be with anyone apart from my family. Therefore, it was quite a chore to load those magazines and then go about shooting. We had a lot of flat-out enjoyable shooting with the surplus ammunition and it was rock ‘n’ roll time using a large caliber gun.
I set up for precision testing at 50 yards using a rolled-up sleeping pad on the roof in my truck…just too difficult to shoot 100 yards accurately using open sights. I was able to get consisting groups of more than 3 inches using ammo from the surplus – I was astonished that it was shooting this well. As I was tinkering using ammo from the Black Hills .308 Win ammo I was getting fairly regular groups of about 2-inches . I was amazed – even for a gun that was made of mostly parts from surplus it was shooting quite well. I’m thinking it’ll perform even better when it is broken-in more.
I’m more than content with this battle rifle. I wanted it, needed it, okay, I wanted it. It’s a great addition to my gun collection. Take a look It’s a bit difficult to locate – I did a little research around…seems that they’re in about $700. A genuine H&K Model91 can cost around $2,500 or more, if you are able to locate one.